How to Hire a Paving Contractor: 10 Questions to Ask Before Signing

Choosing the Right Paving Contractor

A paving project is a significant investment. A residential driveway runs $3,000 to $10,000 or more, and commercial parking lots can reach six figures. The difference between a surface that lasts 20 years and one that cracks in 2 comes down to the contractor you choose.

Before you sign anything, ask these 10 questions. The answers will tell you everything you need to know about whether a contractor deserves your business.

1. Are You Licensed, Bonded, and Insured?

This is non-negotiable. Oregon requires all construction contractors to hold a license from the Construction Contractors Board (CCB).

What to verify:

• Active CCB license: Check at oregon.gov/ccb
• Surety bond: Protects you if the contractor fails to complete the work
• General liability insurance: Covers property damage during the project
• Workers compensation: Covers injuries to the contractor's employees on your property

If a contractor cannot provide proof of all four, walk away. Hiring an unlicensed contractor means you cannot file a complaint with the CCB if something goes wrong, and you may be liable for injuries to uninsured workers on your property.

2. How Long Have You Been Paving in Oregon?

Experience matters, especially in Oregon's climate. Ask specifically about:

• Years in business: Look for at least 5 years of continuous operation
• Oregon-specific experience: Contractors from drier climates may not understand Oregon's drainage and base preparation requirements
• Project types: A contractor who primarily does highway work may not be the best fit for your residential driveway, and vice versa
• References: Request 3-5 recent references for projects similar to yours in scope and type

A contractor who has been paving in the Portland area or Salem area for years understands local soil conditions, weather windows, and permitting requirements.

3. What Base Preparation Do You Include?

The base is everything. A beautiful asphalt surface laid on a poor base will fail within a few years. Ask:

• Will you excavate the existing surface and subgrade? Or are you paving over what is already there?
• What base material do you use? Crushed aggregate (3/4-inch minus) is standard
• How thick is the base? Residential driveways need a minimum of 4-6 inches of compacted aggregate base. Commercial applications need 6-12 inches
• Will you compact the base? And will compaction be verified?
• How do you handle soft spots? Wet or unstable subgrade areas need over-excavation and replacement

A contractor who skips or skimps on base preparation is giving you a pavement that will crack, rut, and fail prematurely. This is the most common corner cut in the paving industry.

4. What Asphalt Mix and Thickness Do You Specify?

Not all asphalt is the same. Ask about:

• Mix design: Oregon DOT specifies Level 2 (1/2-inch dense) for most residential and light commercial applications. Level 3 (3/4-inch dense) for heavy commercial
• Compacted thickness: Residential driveways need a minimum of 2-3 inches of compacted asphalt. Commercial lots need 3-4+ inches, often in two lifts
• Hot mix vs. cold patch: Legitimate paving uses hot-mix asphalt delivered from a plant. Cold patch is for temporary repairs only — never for a new surface
• Temperature requirements: Asphalt should be placed when air temperature is 50 degrees F or above and rising. Ask what their minimum placement temperature policy is

The difference between 2 inches and 3 inches of asphalt is significant. Ask for the specification in writing as part of the contract.

5. How Do You Handle Drainage?

Water is the number one enemy of asphalt pavement. Poor drainage leads to premature failure. Ask:

• What slope will the finished surface have? Minimum 2% grade toward drainage points
• Where will water drain? To the street, a swale, a French drain, or a catch basin?
• Will you address existing drainage issues? Standing water on the current surface is a problem that new pavement will not solve without regrading
• Do you install edge drainage? Edge restraints and drainage at the pavement perimeter prevent undermining

A contractor who dismisses drainage questions does not understand what makes pavement last in Oregon's climate.

6. What Is Your Timeline?

Get specific dates and understand the process:

• When will you start? Get a date, not "in a few weeks"
• How long will the project take? Most residential driveways take 1-3 days. Larger projects take longer
• What is the paving sequence? Typically: demolition and removal, base excavation and preparation, base installation and compaction, asphalt placement, cleanup
• Weather contingency: What happens if it rains? Reputable contractors reschedule rather than pave in the rain
• When can I drive on it? Typically 24-48 hours for cars, 5-7 days for heavy vehicles

See our detailed guide on what to expect during a paving project for a complete timeline breakdown.

7. What Does Your Warranty Cover?

Warranty terms vary widely. Get specifics:

• Duration: 1-2 years is standard, 3-5 years is excellent
• What is covered: Cracking, settling, raveling, drainage problems caused by installation errors
• What is excluded: Normal wear, vehicle fluid damage, root heave, damage from unauthorized work
• Process: How do you file a warranty claim? What is the response time?

Get the warranty in writing. Verbal warranties are worthless.

8. What Is Your Payment Schedule?

Payment structure reveals a lot about a contractor's financial stability and business practices:

• Reasonable deposit: 10-20% at contract signing
• Progress payment: 30-40% when base preparation is complete
• Final payment: Balance due upon completion and your inspection
• Never pay in full upfront: No legitimate contractor needs all your money before starting

Red flags:

• Demanding 50%+ upfront
• Cash-only requests
• Pressure to pay before inspecting completed work
• No written contract or receipt

9. Can I See Recent Work?

Any contractor worth hiring can show you completed projects:

• Ask to visit 2-3 recent projects similar to yours in scope
• Look for: Smooth surface, uniform color, clean edges, proper drainage slope, neat transitions
• Ask the property owner: Were they satisfied? Did the contractor stay on schedule and budget? Any issues after completion?
• Check online reviews: Google, BBB, and Angi reviews provide additional data points

10. What Is Not Included in Your Estimate?

This question catches hidden costs. Ask specifically about:

• Permits: Are permit fees included or separate?
• Utility adjustments: Raising manholes, valve boxes, or drain grates to the new surface level
• Striping and marking: For parking lots and commercial applications
• Sealing: Initial sealcoating is typically done 6-12 months after paving (separate cost)
• Landscape restoration: Repairing disturbed lawn, sprinklers, or landscaping along the edges
• Disposal fees: Removal and disposal of existing pavement
• Change orders: How are changes to scope handled and priced?

Comparing Estimates: Beyond the Bottom Line

When you have three estimates in hand, compare them on equal terms. Our guide to reading and comparing paving estimates walks you through this process in detail. The key is comparing scope, materials, and methods, not just price.

The lowest bid is often the most expensive in the long run if it means thinner asphalt, less base preparation, or a contractor who disappears when problems arise.

Ready to Get Started?

Cojo answers all 10 of these questions upfront in every estimate. We provide detailed, written proposals with clear specifications, transparent pricing, and strong warranties.

Request your free paving estimate or explore our paving services.