Converting a Gravel Driveway to Asphalt: Cost & Process

Converting a Gravel Driveway to Asphalt

If you are tired of mud, ruts, dust, and constant regrading, converting your gravel driveway to asphalt is one of the better upgrades you can make to an Oregon property. The good news: your existing gravel may already be doing part of the job. The question every homeowner asks is whether you can simply pave over gravel, and the honest answer is "sometimes, with the right prep." This guide explains the process, the cost, and when reusing your base saves real money. For the full driveway picture, start with our complete asphalt driveway guide.

Can You Pave Directly Over Gravel?

Not exactly, and not always. You cannot just drop hot asphalt onto loose gravel and expect it to last. But a gravel driveway that has been in place for years often has a partially compacted base that a contractor can build on. The key factors are:

• Depth and quality of the existing gravel. Is there enough crushed rock, and is it the right kind?
• Compaction. Is the base firm, or is it loose and migrating?
• Drainage and grade. Does the driveway shed water, or does it pond and rut?
• Sub-grade condition. Is the soil beneath stable, or soft and saturated?

A contractor will probe and assess these before deciding whether to reuse, supplement, or rebuild the base. Our installation process guide explains why the base matters so much.

The Conversion Process

1. Assessment

The contractor evaluates the existing gravel depth, compaction, drainage, and grade. This determines how much of your current base can be reused.

2. Grading and Shaping

The crew regrades the gravel to establish proper slope for drainage and a smooth surface profile. Low spots are filled and high spots cut down.

3. Adding and Compacting Base Rock

If the existing gravel is insufficient, the crew adds crushed aggregate and compacts everything in lifts to build a firm, stable base. This is where reusing existing gravel saves money: you may need less new rock than starting from bare soil.

4. Paving

Hot asphalt is placed and rolled, typically a 2 to 3 inch compacted surface for a residential driveway. Edges are sloped so they hold up under tires.

5. Curing

The new surface cures over the following weeks. You can usually drive on it within a day or two, but avoid heavy point loads and parking in one spot while it hardens.

What the Conversion Costs

Converting gravel to asphalt usually costs less than building a driveway from bare soil, because the existing gravel can offset some of the base work. How much you save depends entirely on how good your current base is. A deep, well-compacted, well-draining gravel driveway is most of the way there. A thin, muddy, poorly graded one needs more work and approaches new-construction cost. Industry baseline ranges for new asphalt run roughly $3 to $8 per square foot; a conversion with a reusable base can land at the lower end. See our asphalt driveway cost guide for the full breakdown.

Is It Worth It?

For a daily-use driveway in Oregon's wet climate, almost always. You trade ongoing mud, regrading, and re-rocking for a firm, clean surface that sheds water and plows cleanly. Our asphalt vs. gravel guide breaks down the long-term cost comparison, and for most homeowners the math favors paving once you account for years of gravel upkeep.

Drainage: Do Not Skip It

The reason many gravel driveways are muddy is poor drainage, and paving over a drainage problem just hides it temporarily. A good conversion corrects the grade and adds drainage where needed so water moves off the surface and away from the base. Skipping this step is the fastest way to ruin a new asphalt driveway.